2020 Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay, 6x750ml

2020 Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay, 6x750ml

Availability: 4 weeks

Case size: 6 / Bottle size: 750ml

Duty Status
From £295.00

Critics Score: 97

Publication: Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate

Drinking Dates: 2022-2037

Pure, unfettered fruit concentration is the calling card of the 2020 Reserve Chardonnay. That, and the acid. The focus on blocking malolactic fermentation in the Chardonnays at Xanadu has imbued the wines with line, focus and purity, and it allows them to evolve, very slowly, over a long period of time. This wine, today, in its youth, pulses with life and vibrancy, and it is the best example I can think to give of the power and acid inherent in the Gingin clone. The Lagan Vineyard (situated just outside the cellar door) performs just like this each year. Almost impervious to the seasons, save for a slight nod in their direction, the vineyard is balanced and possessed of its own identity. Crystalline and almost austere, this is toasty and spiced, with layers of undulating flavor through the fine, spooling finish. A monumental wine of endless potential.
The Chardonnay style at Xanadu is pronounced in the glass, well established over time, and is crucial to understanding prior to assessing the wines. Firstly, and most obviously, malolactic fermentation is assiduously blocked. This paves the way for the extraordinarily taut, nervy acidity endemic to the Gingin clone to be on full display, and boy, does it shine. To give numbers to that statement via the Reserve range: the pH was at its lowest at three (2020) and highest at 3.21 (2008), while the total acidity is somewhere between 7.3 (2012) and 8.9 (2018/2019/2020). On release, the wines are as tense as anything and can appear austere, even. However, the thundering fruit power that the clone (and the vineyard) is so effortlessly capable of pads out all corners of the palate and is essentially lying in wait for the years to unfurl its potential. At about five years from vintage, the wines blossom, and it is only then that the kaleidoscopic intensity of the fruit is freed from the shackles of acid—all rises as one in the glass, revealing wines of thunderous power, eminent balance and extraordinary grace.
- Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate